Entering the Basotho house at over 9400 feet above sea level (2450 meters).
One of the neatest cultural experiences we’ve had on this trip thus far was when we visited a Basotho village at Sani Pass in the small country of Lesotho. While geared somewhat to the various tourists that come here to visit this scenic austere place, it was an actual village with real inhabitants, not actors posing for show. We gathered inside a circular house with a thatched roof and walls made of stone mortared together with a mixture of mud and cow dung, along with the people on another touring land cruiser. We sat on the benches lining the interior wall, the dim interior lit only by the open doorway. (At this high elevation, windows are simply considered unnecessary luxuries that make the house colder without adding much more light. There is no electricity here, although I saw a couple of small solar panels that probably power a light bulb or possibly a cell phone charger at night.) We were told stories in English about their culture and history, and given a glimpse of life in such a harsh place with few natural resources aside from sparse forage for a few hardy livestock.
Members of the other tour vehicle that were listening to the presentation in the house. These were all native South Africans, possibly students from a university. The man is of Indian descent – South Africa has a sizable Indian population. The women are mostly Zulus.
Zulu women are beautiful!
At the end of the talks, we were given pieces of fresh bread baked over a cow-dung-fueled fire in the middle of the room. While very simple, it was amazingly tasty and memorable, proving that a large part of the enjoyment of food comes from the context in which it is consumed. There were also an array of woven items such as baskets, hats, and mats as well as beaded jewelry, dolls, and figurines for sale. I ended up buying a well-crafted and sturdy basket expertly woven with the broom corn fibers dyed bright colors for only about $15, as well as another piece of the loaf of bread, which I shared with my group and our driver named Wilson in a sequel Scones and Cokes moment. (See post from Sept 8 to better understand the reference if you don’t get it.) Getting off of the beaten track and into unusual local spaces is often at least as rewarding than hitting only the well-known spots, not to take anything away from those places, which deserve the recognition they receive. But this was a day at Sani Pass that stood out as worthy of extra attention.
It was interesting to watch these relatively privileged young South Africans interact with the fairly poor Basotho people. They have fashionable clothing and smartphones, and to watch them listen to and comment on the lives of semi-nomadic sheep herders who live in the neighboring nation was fascinating to watch.
The educated young South African students mingle with native Basotho herders outside of the village after purchasing baskets, jewelry, and other gift items.
Me with the young Basotho lady who baked the bread and sold the gift items, including the basket I am holding that I bought.
The basket has colors that will fit very nicely with those in my living room, which is why I chose it. The bread was eaten within 10 minutes.